I figured I’d write a post about the Amanero + add-on board that allows for USB or I²S input. Which input to use is determined by a jumper on the add-on board, but I will most likely wire that jumper to a switch on the enclosure.
The output options are: SPDIF via coax, optical and AES/EBU. There’s also the option to get I²S output via HDMI.
/Mayday Nov 25th 2021
Search engine nonsense: Amanero XMOS WM8805 SPDIF I2S HDMI AES/EBU coaxial toslink optical
To begin with, I have to say that I don’t know how fresh the paste I got was as I couldn’t find any date info on the small plastic tub it came in.
I have used the Sn/Bi based pastes before and though I found the latest, prior to this, brand to leave way too much solder-balls, at least it did flow at low temperature. That paste came in the typical syringe, I think the name of that low temp solder paste was “Soda” or something similar.
The PPD Woneng required higher temperatures to flow than normal leaded solder paste. And then it didn’t completely flow, but left alot of paste still on the PCB along with solder-balls (when I removed the hot air in fear of damaging components).
I’ve added about 10 drops of liquid flux and some Amtech flux gel to “revitalize” the solder paste.
A few days later…
It’s still not as good as most fresh Sn/Pb 63/37 based solder paste, it produces more solder balls among other things, but at least it’s useable now.
This leads me to think I got a tub that was past expiration and most likely not kept cool.
I know I’d be better off getting low temp solder paste from a known brand, and I will when I can justify the expense considering how little DIY I have time for at the moment.
This is the tub I have:
/Mayday
I’m building a headphone amplifier, with USB-DAC if I can fit it in the enclosure he chose. The enclosure is a clone of the Lehmann BCL enclosure.
The headphone amplifier is my version of the XP-7 (I think it’s called), with an AD797 and a buffer. I chose the LME49600 instead of the BUF634 in this build.
I’ve added a C-L-C filter to the original design, and the PCB’s are mono so two are needed.
I’ll use PPS capacitors and 0.1% minimelf resistors, the larger capacitors will be Panasonic very low ESR.
For the +/-12V supply, I’ll use TPS7A4700 and TPS7A3301 ultra low noise LDO’s.
I will add a USB-DAC if there’s room in the enclosure. For this I’m going with basic parts, PCM2706 and ESS 9023.
If I can fit the USB-DAC in the enclosure, I’ll use another TPS7A4700 for the +5V supply for these boards.
More to follow…
/Mayday 2021/03/25
Search engine nonsense:
Headphone amplifier, dac TPS7A4700 TPS7A3301 LME49600 AD797 USB D/A
I’ve realized I won’t have the time and energy to compare all the things I wanted to.
So… I’m thinking of letting go of one or two of my Red Baron V5 boards.
Both with matched resistors and 1N4148. Film caps are; blue BC Vishay MKP’s and red Wima’s. One board has Vishay Roederstein resistors and Vishay MRS25, the other has Holco’s and Vishay MRS25.
Large capacitors are Sanyo OS-CON.
…I got around to making the cables for connecting the TMC2208 stepper motor drivers with the MKS GEN L board via UART.
The blue wires are the ones with the 1Kohm resistor.
I also put connectors on the braided wiring I prepared for the 3D-touch auto bed leveling sensor (a BL touch clone/cheap version).
I’ve got an all metal hotend on the way, along with some spares and small upgrades. Among the upgrades, if you can call it that, I have a “pin27 breakout board” that should get here soon. This is to save me the hassle of splicing in to the ribbon cable that goes to the display board.
Once the parts are here, I have the option of using the ender 3’s stock mainboard, or the MKS GEN L.
Either way I will get auto bed leveling, a filament runout sensor, thermal runaway protection and an all metal hotend allowing for higher temperatures and abrasive filaments.
Considering how much linear rail stuff I have laying around, I could (without having to get many extra parts) build a second 3d-printer.
Well, this was a spur of the moment update, I hope I didn’t ramble on too much.
/mayday 2020/06/23
I finally got around to at least starting the upgrade of the ender 3.
I’ve put marlin on an MKS GEN L and prepared the TMC2208 stepper motor drivers for uart mode. Well, I still need to bridge the solder pads on the bottom of the boards, but I have brought the required pins to the top of the boards.
I have put OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pi 3 and I have camera for it as well as the extra long zif cable. I just need to print the mount for the camera, the housing for the MKS GEN L board, and a few other parts before switching over to OctoPrint and the MKS GEN L with TMC2208’s in uart mode.
I need a new thermistor for the hot end as the wiring on the original broke, I ordered a set with a screw in thermistor. When that arrives, I can continue the upgrade.
I may at some point upgrade to the SKR mini E3 and the T35 E3 TFT display to get 32bit hardware.
/Mayday 2020/06/18
I sent a message to the supplier and they agreed to send me a replacement for the broken controller board.
If it arrives, that’s when I will believe it, that’s great.
If not, I’ll have to use an Arduino UNO and some TB6600 stepper motor drivers I have laying around along with one of the two spindle motor speed controllers I have.
/Mayday 2020/06/16
I was going to etch a replacement board for the CNC 3018 Pro, the one that came with the CNC just died on me, I remembered how tedious the toner transfer and etching was…
I’ll try to get the seller to send me a replacement for the broken controller board instead.
/Mayday 2020/06/13
After a while with relatively mild pain, compared to my day to day pain, the pain has returned.
I’ll update the blog once the pain settles down a bit.
/Mayday 2020/06/07
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I’ve been thinking about getting a discrete R2R dac on and off for a while.
I have done a couple of layouts in KiCad, and there’s available gerbers for designs made by Pavel. If I recall correctly, his design is called DSC or DCS Signalyst or something similar.
Then there’s the Soekris DAM DAC’s.
I don’t know if it’s worth the effort of making another design in addition to the options that are available?
I guess I’ll have to think about it.
/Mayday 2020/05/27
Mayday DIY audio 